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Appalachian Trail and Hitchhiking Home 2004

Preface

After returning home to Houston from backpacking Japan in late January, one month of cozy lifestyle was about all I could tolerate. After 3 months, the comforts became almost ironicly unbearable, especially with the beautiful spring weather screaming for people to enjoy it like the aroma of a finely cooked meal. (That's definitely not inferring I take this life or society for granted.) This summer's planned adventure will involve a flip-flop thru-hike of of the well-known 2150-mile Appalachian Trail. Rather than taking the 36 hour bus ride (with a few hours of layovers), I'll be riding Amtrak trains for the first time to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. (The difference in price was an additional $30 and about 4 hours total of layovers.)

Harpers Ferry marks almost the midpoint of the trail. From there I'll be hiking northbound towards Maine in a 2.5 months time frame starting May 8th. Then I'll return home for rest and return to the trail later in the year to complete the southbound portion, Harpers Ferry to Georgia. Hopefully.

Gearwise, equipment is mostly the same. The Therm-a-rest Ultralite Long has been replaced with a Prolite 3 Regular, which saves half a pound. The aluminum poles for the tents have been replaced with carbon poles, trimming another half pound. The fleece jacket will not be necessary, which cuts a pound off the pack weight. Adding weight, I will have a solar-powered battery charger and slightly heavier waterproof shoes. Trudging daily through snow in wet cold running shoes in Japan was...hmmm...let's say, miserable.


First Half

A Nice Path on Trail I spent over 8 weeks hiking the trail and 2 weeks hitchhiking home from Maine. The trail is a long walk, but hitchhiking is an unpredicatable adventure. Originally my intentions were not to hitchhike home to Houston like last year, but I followed through with it and met some wonderful people. Regardless, hitchhiking long distances can burden the soul- it's as discouraging thumbing a ride as it is stress-free just taking a plane or bus.

During the 8.5 weeks of hiking 900+ miles of the trail, I took only 2 days off near Darmouth College in Hanover, New Hampshire. The lack of rest probably contributed to the mental sluggishness and numbness in the large right toe. How the numb toe heals will also determine my return to the trail. A couple of times I carried 8-9 days of food, which was suprisingly tolerable, but burdensome nevertheless. (I strongly believe the first time carrying 9 days of food contributed to leg pain and toe numbness.)

On the AT, hikers traditionally have trailnames, and a thru-hiker named Clown assigned mine: Nightlight (some people spell it "Night lite", "Nitelight," or "Night light"). The first hiker to address me by this new identity was Kung Fu.


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Journal Entries

May 8, 2004
May 20, 2004
June 4, 2004
June 7, 2004
June 9, 2004
June 14, 2004
June 16, 2004
July 4, 2004
July 5, 2004
July 12, 2004
July 13, 2004
July 14, 2004
July 17, 2004(1)
July 17, 2004(2)
July 18, 2004
July 19, 2004


Clown and Me at Shikellimy Overlook First Full Day on the Trail About to Cook at Ensign Cowall Shelter View of Duncannon from Hawk Rock View from a Wooden Platform Clown (from Virginia) and Kung Fu (from Iowa) at Eckville Shelter Palmerton in the Distance Bone Dancer with Banjo and Charlie at Leroy A. Smith Shelter Biggest rattlesnake I've ever witnessed Slow Motion and Patience resting at Morgan Stewart Shelter Culver firetower Ghost below Culver firetower Flip-flop Thru-hiker Ghost (from Massachusetts) who Writes Down Every Thru-hiker's Name He Meets The Pink Team and Diamond at Old City Road (5 miles from Secret Shelter) Vernon Church (hostel) View from Hammond Hill Blue Skies at Hammond Hill When I took this Picture, I didn't Know I would have to Eventually Climb the Mountain Tower at top of Bear Mountain Swimming at Upper Goose Pond (actually lake) Summit of Bear Mountain in Connecticut View from Bear Mountain in Connecticut Shelter vandalism is very common Bees Knees and Relentless (from Ohio) at Lula Tye Shelter Friendly butterfly Cabin at the Lookout Side Trail View from the Lookout Side Trail Boos Goose (from Mississippi) Breaking at Story Spring Shelter Friendly chipmonk at Kid Gore Shelter Peru Peak with poor man's hiking poles Bag with White Powder (probably flour) at Shelter North Kinsman Peak Blind Mouse at Stony Brook Shelter Mount Greylock Tower New Shelter Long Trail hiker Tarapin and Thru-hiker Aron E-Dogg on Mount Everett Rainy Cold Day at the Fire Warden's Cabin eating Peanut Butter Gary at Glencliff hiker hostel Uncle Walt Easy One Two section hikers at Glencliff hiker hostel Poor man's hiking poles laid to rest Heading to Mount Moosilauke Peak above Treeline Looking at the path to the summit of Moosilauke Puffy and Stumbles taking break at Beaver Brook Shelter on Drizzy Day Beaver Brook Shelter was cold until I got under the Clouds Falls along trail from Beaver Brook Shelter to Kinsman Notch Rambler Trail to Mount Lincoln South Bound (SOBO) hiker Dances With Moose View from the Whites Picnic table near Twin Peaks Trail (off AT) Trail in the Whites (Presidentials) Mountains View from Mount Washington Train Transporting People From/To Mount Washington (something like $17.50/per person) Research Tower after Shelter Peak in Whites Sign Direction Old Speck Trail Two Medical Student Section Hikers from Oklahoma View from Old Speck Trail Along the Lake Resort South of Bangor, Maine Drew and Sara Allowed Me to Have a Cabin, but I Tented Sara Gave Ride to Bangor, Maine Stealth Camped along Lake Adjacent to Braxton State Park Sitting out the Storm under Interstate 81 Fort Bowman Sign (about to rain) Barn on US 11 with Abandoned Home Michael gave ride from Virginia to Tennessee Shelbyville Tennessee American Legion Building Golden Grasshopper at Fort Bowman Historical Site Pat Living in Woods near Truck Stop Building Henry's Cabin Last Stealth Camp outside Kilgore, TX Waiting for Bus Home in Nacodoges, TX after last Hitch