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Stopped at: Highway 2, mile 371.9 Miles today: 12.0
I had never heard of Wrightwood until many, many days into the hiking trail. The data book showed it was the home of Mountain Hardware, which I thought was the company which built all the high-end outdoor gear and clothes. I was even hoping Mountain Hardware had an outlet store to purchase cheap gear.
I haven't been this late out of camp since Lake Moreno. After a long night yesterday, the day started off expectedly sluggish with a constant ascent to Acorn Trailhead. I got a good glimpse of the forest this morning and could see many dead trees fallen over the sloping mountainside.
There was an extremely difficult, but short climb before Guffy campground, my planned destination yeterday had I not been detoured. It's a nice solitairy campground with a chemical toilet and picnic tables with fire rings; however, I couldn't find the water source. There was steel watertank, but it was completely empty except for empty water bottles and cans.
It was still quite a ways to Highway 2, and I had just enough water to eat lunch. There was a bag of turkey lunch meat which I thought was bad and almost trashed; however, it smelled okay, and ate the contents because it was the last bit of food I had. I didn't stay over an hour because it was too cool at 8225 feet.
By 2:00 pm, I reached the first of 2 artificial lakes (more like pools). Had I been desperate for water, I would have jumped the fence or crawled underneath (like others might have done based on the holes in the ground) to fetch water. A bearded man in a truck coming from the office asked, "How long have you been on the trail?"
"I'm nearing the 400th mile," I responded with a hint of pride. Proud not because I've hiked almost 400 miles, but because I hadn't given up so easily early in the game.
"Where you headin'?"
"To Highway 2," I answered not realizing the trail actually crosses Highway 2 at many points. From the experience on Van Duesen Road heading into Big Bear City, I knew better than attempting to reach Wrightwood from the Acorn Trail, which I passed up very recently- it was best to hitchhike into from a paved highway.
"Hop in!" I started to reach for the door handle, but decided I needed to cover the distance on my own. It wasn't much longer to Highway 2. I thanked the man, and he rode off on the dirt road. About 200 yards up the road, be reversed back to me. "The trail continues in that direction. I've seen people get going the wrong way," he said as he showed me the other paths.
I really appreciate his effort even though I was roughly heading in the right direction- it must take a deep conscience for him to backtrack to ensure I was walking the right way. For a moment I forgot about my thirst because I felt I was in good hands.
Three men were at the trailhead parking lot, Inspiration Point, and 2 of them had backpacks: Jared and Glenn, 2 hikers who were supposedly 2 days ahead based on the log at the last water cache, and Jack Cain, a trail angel who also took care of the register at Mountain Hardware in Wrightwood. Jared and Glenn were continuing about 5 miles up the trail while Jack was about to return to town.
Last night, the Jared and Glenn had stayed in a cabin at the Methodist campground and recommended it to me. My original intention was to quickly resupply food in Wrightwood and then get the heck out of Dodge and put some decent miles so I could make it to Aqua Dulce in 4 days. After a sluggish morning, maybe I do need some time off [photo copyright 2003 by Jared McClain]. Also, I already had 12 miles under the belt today.
It would have been extremely difficult to hitch a ride into town since the highway was closed up ahead due to the danger of falling rocks. Meeting Jack was a very fortunate experience. Before we left, a girl who looked to be trail jogger because of her shorts and shirt was looking around. I suspect the blue car (only other car) in the parking lot belonged to her.
Jack dropped me off at the Methodist campground, and a man working on a motor vehicle introduced himself by saying, "You don't look like a hiker." I looked at him puzzled even though I knew he was joking. He showed me the clean cabin next door which had a bathroom, twin bed, queen bed, heater, AC, and the works. The only thing it didn't have Dolby Surround Sound entertainment system. This was just too good not to stay. I hadn't had a night alone in a room since Las Vegas. My body said "yes" and my mind said "yes" in total agreement. Adding sugar to the sweet deal, the gentleman said, "You can stay as long as you want. One couple stayed for a few days because the man had serious blister problems." I had only planned to stay one night, and this morning I hadn't even planned on staying at all in Wrightwood.
One of the youth camp counselors said the cabin was no longer in the guide book because it's generally occupied during the busy summer.
Looking back, it's totally amazing I was at the cabin today. Had I not been lost for 3 hours yesterday, I probably would have just resupplied in Wrightwood and left quickly. I would have never met Jack, Jared, or Glenn, who informed of this wonderful place. Had I not been out of water, I may not have rushed to Highway 2. Life, at least life on the trail, has become very predictable lately: A detour somehow leads me on the path I was meant to be on. Maybe those people who believe "things happen for a reason" have a good point.
I went to center of town and stopped first at the Mountain Hardware store. This wasn't the Mountain Hardwear (spelled with wear instead of ware) I had expected. The camp counselor had many good things to say about this store: the owner donated part of the profits and the property used natural power. In his own words, the counselor praised, "They've a good example for the community."
The register had names and phone numbers of trail angels in town who accepted hikers. I had no idea this kind of stuff was in town PCT registers. One of the trail angels offered rides. "Hmmm, I wonder if I could get a ride to the trailhead tomorrow." I jotted down her number and a few others if she wasn't available. The odds of hitching a ride back to the trailhead wasn't all that great since most people didn't go past town because of the highway closing after the trailhead.
At the grocery store, I purchased food for the 4-day trek to Aqua Dulce. I could, if necessary, stop in Acton, CA, on the third day for groceries. I even picked up a 1/2 gallon of rocky road ice cream and a 1-litre bottle of vanilla coke. And of course, what grocery trip would be complete without a 2-quart carton of orange juice. Walking the mile or so back to the cabin was a little tedious with all the groceries in my hands instead of on my back.
The pay phone at the cabin did not work and gobbled 35 cents. Later, I asked the counselors if I could use their phone to make a local call, and they were helpful. Carol Shuh, the only person in the register offering rides, was not available. I called a couple, but they were unavailable also. I started thinking I would have to walk the entire 10 miles or most of it back to the trailhead tomorrow. Even if I did walk the distance, it would introduce the problem of having no water once I reached the trailhead.
Thinking tomorrow was another workday, and people might not be available made me feel even worse. Finally, Laurie had just come home from work, and we talked for a few minutes. Initially, she thought I needed a ride to the trailhead today (maybe I wasn't clear on when), but I explained the ride was needed tomorrow morning or anytime she was available, and she was very helpful. We agreed tomorrow at 7:00 am.
Laurie and I met because she only lived around the corner, and she needed to walk her 3 loving dogs. It was also a good idea for her to meet this stranger before giving him a lift. She was most definitely an animal lover (and also had a cat at home). Walter, her husband of 4 years, was on the PCT somewhere around Kennedy Meadows.
We stopped by her house where she and her husband host about 2 hikers each year. I was exceptionally surprised she cooked a vegetarian dinner, allowed internet usage, and was very sociable. This hospitality reminded me very much of the Hiker's Oasis in Anza, except Laurie allowed hikers to sleep indoors. When I was too modest to accept a second helping of dinner, she read into me and forced more food on my plate. We talked like old friends even though there was a noticable age difference between us. All this when I only needed a ride tomorrow was far beyond expectation.
She offered some powerbars and raisins before I left. Laurie was the first person I had admitted I really had no great intentions of hiking the PCT in the beginning. Even now, I wasn't sure where I stood. When I also revealed I was doing this trip completely solo and unsupported (my family and friends don't know I'm hiking the PCT), she offered a business card with her number in case of an emergency. Even though I trust myself to emerge on the right paths in life, it was wonderful to know someone I just met was passionately caring.
Why did I deserve such good treatment? Had I taken a 5 minute break before Highway 2, I would have not gotten the useful information from Jack or Glenn or Jared. A matter of minutes proved to be an important difference in my life. Tonight will be peaceful at the cabin as it was difficult on the trail last night. To think, I had no intentions of staying in Wrightwood.
